Judgment of Paris

When I was a wine consultant, my boss bought this book for me and insisted I read it--I'm glad he did, and if you have a desire to learn California wine history, I urge you to read it, too. I have to preface my short review by admitting that I'm not finished reading it in its entirety. Shamefully, I've had this book for months, but a multitude of screenwriting books, screenplays, and films have stolen my attention. When I do get a chance to sneak this book into my day or night, it is a rewarding educational experience.

Recently, a story in the Times briefly told of the rise and fall of the Mondavi family. Normally, I have no interest in the Mondavis, and don't exactly admire their influence on the wine world. (see the documentary Mondovino)

However, there is a certain intrigue about the Mondavi brothers to me as literary heroes-and anti-heroes. In my reading of George Taber's book, I have reached his synopsis of the family's generational struggles, and again, my interest is piqued. Beginning with an Italian man landing on Ellis Island with only a dream, to the battle between brothers across two generations , to men and great fortunes lost, it is a story that sounds more like a Russian novel than a family's history. Very Dostoevsky.

Taber doesn't spend too long hashing out the legend of the Mondavi family; it is but one file, if you will, in a filing cabinet full of the history of the "revolution" of California wine, leading up to the historic 1976 tasting in Paris. It's a wonderful history lesson, and reads as such. I wouldn't use the word "revolutionized" as Taber did, because my opinion is that California wines have a long way to go as a whole, especially in comparison with French AOC standards. But then, it has to be taken into account that I'm known to be a French sympathizer. Clearly, the tasting certainly changed the way the world views California wine.

I'm still pouring over the many personalities that lead up to this Judgment, and I have to say, this author knows how to set up a story. For a long time. Still, wine is an important part of our history as a people, and this book archives the people and events that make up the wine world.
When I finally do get to the anticipated tasting that Taber has laboriously lead up to, I will perhaps be able to feel the triumph that reverberated in the hearts of California wine makers in 1976. Judgment day awaits. (and so does a film?)