Father of Vinifera, Growing the American Dream

When Dr. Konstantin Frank emigrated from the Ukraine back in the 1950's, America, and especially New York, wasn't exactly a mecca for wine production. Most of the grapes growing in the Empire State were native labrusca grapes; mostly Concords made into juice and jams. Concords are certainly a New York gem, but was there room for more on the lush lands upstate that were so strategically situated at 43 degrees latitude? Indeed, there was. It took the spirit of a pioneer, the mind of a scientist, and the persistence of a man who didn't fear the cynics or the cold if they stood in the way of his dream. That dream, which began not so long ago, was the dream that brought vinifera grapes to the east coast.

Before Dr. Frank, New York was thought to be much too cold for growing traditional wine making grapes. The idea of drinking a good Riesling or Pinot Noir from New York seemed impossible-laughable, even. So when the thoughtful pioneer told others of his vision to plant vinifera and cultivate European wines, there were many who bemoaned the weather, insisting that it could not be done. They declared the vines would surely perish in the extreme cold. Tell that to a man who came from a place where, in his words, "Spit would freeze before it hit the ground." He wasn't about to lose heart over a much more moderate drop in temperature.

Now that's my kind of guy. Confident, not bothered by a little cold air, and definitely not ruffled by a few resistors (also known as nay-sayers, critics, know-it-alls, pests). He didn't have time to be bothered by all this, because he had serious work to do. Of course, the road was not always easy. (And how could it be? What great legends were made by trust fund babies living on the upper west side? I can't think of one.) His English was quite shaky and he was in a new country, vast and still unfamiliar to him. Despite holding advanced degrees, his first job in America was washing dishes. After that, he secured employment at the New York State Experiment Station, but again he was given a menial job. So, he did what he had to do until he could do what he was meant to do - and as you'll see, what he was meant to do was change the landscape of New York forever, and come to be called the father of vinifera for the east coast.

He had his eye on the Finger Lakes, where the pristine waters dipped into rolling green hills and plains. The lakes would cool the grapes in summer and temper the harsh winter winds. The locale was idyllic, and in time, Dr. Frank planted rows of vines that would soon become the wines of New York's empirical future. Things began to take shape when he met Charles Fournier, a French wine maker who believed in Dr. Frank's vision and hired him as a consultant. What the two men needed first was good, hardy stock. Rootstock, that is. It had to be something more robust than the native or hybrid vines. Something resilient that could withstand the cold and still thrive-a rootstock, you might say, that was more like Dr. Frank himself. Find it they did, and when this vigorous rootstock (sourced from Quebec) was grafted onto vinifera, it produced so many healthy grapes that the nay-sayers and critics were silenced for the first time in...well, for the first time. Hard to imagine, isn't it? Meanwhile, Dr. Frank's cup runneth over. He went on to establish Vinifera Wine Cellars in 1962, and turned out wines so elegant they knocked the critics' socks off - the same critics who said it couldn't be done. Well, not only could it be done, but he did it better than most. Not only did he do it better, but his heirs would later expand and improve the winery times three. If that weren't enough, he also inspired literally hundreds of future winemakers to plant vinifera in the region.

I like to imagine that first ounce of Riesling, scrutinized inside a beaker held with trembling hands. I can see the spark in Dr. Frank's eyes when he tasted that burst of beautiful yellow fruit, perfeclty balanced with the mineral acidity that is a mark of excellence. How he must have invisioned in turn the first splash that would soon be poured into a ready glass. Call it the splash of vinifera heard round the world, because today New York is the third largest wine producer in the country, with new vineyards cropping up in droves. Dr. Konstantin Frank showed us the way.

His heirs have improved upon and expanded the initial success. His son, the late Willy Frank, operated the vineyard and winery until his death at age 80 (and that is another great story, for another article.) Fred, his grandson, took the helm in 2006.

I could tell you about all the awards their wines have won, but the press has done that, and it is widely known Dr. Frank wines are not only extraordinary, but rival some top French Burgundies. They have been served at famed New York City restaurants and sold in little wine shops. They have been served at the tables of royalty and at the tables of the working class. They have been served at my table, and will be as long as the Frank family makes great wines.
Before trying Dr. Frank wines, I didn't even know I liked Gewurztraminer or Riesling. I suppose I'd never had such great ones. But, Dr. Frank showed me the way.

What inspires me as much as the wines is the fact that Konstantin Frank lived the true American dream. From the ground up, he built his future. It was a future crafted from hard work, perseverance in the face of adversity, and an impenetrable will. It was the kind of work done by someone who was not afraid to get his hands dirty. A dream built on integrity. The kind of dream we should all aspire to, and what should truly make an empire state have the right to call itself that. Otherwise, it's just a place with a large city and black suits.

In my next post I will share with you the Dr. Frank wines I have tasted, and explore some of my favorites.